Stephanie Howell

Exploring Italy | Sardinia {Cagliari, Villasimius, Chia}

This past Friday we went on a little adventure to Sardinia. The plane ride is only a little over an hour and the tickets were crazy affordable.

We decided that we should go to the south of Sardinia, Cagliari specifically. Oh, who am I kidding. *I* decided. I am the trip planner and packer in this family. Ha!

I picked Cagliari for several reasons. First- I heard that the southern part of Sardinia was less touristy than the northern part. Also...the tickets to the Cagliari airport were WAY more affordable than the tickets to the north. Decision made.

Here's where we were on a map:

The first day we got there about 10 am and checked into the apartment. As always, we used Airbnb. I find it the best way to travel for a large family. If you want to try Airbnb, use my referral link. We will both get travel credit!

We knew we didn't have a good grasp of the area yet and we didn't want to cram too much into the first day, so first we did a bit of exploring in the city.

Since we flew to the city, we opted to rely on public transportation. We wanted to get the lay of the land before we attempted anything complicated.

Of course that included eating. Duh. I have to say whenever anyone asks me where to eat in Italy I say ANYWHERE. This isn't a joke.

I have only had one bad meal in the year we've been here. Everything is good here.

You simply cannot go wrong with a plate of pasta. The more simple the better. Italy does al dente right. I haven't had a single plate of over or undercooked pasta since moving here.

After lunch we decided to hop on a bus to Poetto Beach. Poetto is Cagliari's "city" beach.

It was an overcast and gray afternoon so photos don't do it justice but it was quite lovely.

Since moving to Italy I've discovered the Spritz Aperol/Aperol Spritz , a traditional Italian cocktail. I'm obsessed. They are the perfect combination of bitter and sweet.

Spritz Aperol // 3 parts prosecco + 2 parts Aperol + a splash of soda water . Garnish with orange and serve over ice. Aperol is the sweet counterpart of Campari...you can also make this cocktail with Campari for a more bitter version.

On day two, we took the advice of our taxi driver and visited Villasimius.

Oh.My.Gosh y'all. There are no words. The most beautiful beach I've ever seen.

It was about a 2 hour bus ride away from Cagliari and as our bus got close I knew we were in for a treat because this is what i saw out our window.

 

We got off the bus and walked for about half an hour down the beach, around a corner...and saw this. GASP.

 

Day three we took our taxi driver's advice, yet again, and hit up Chia Beach.

Chia is all the way down at the southern tip of Sardinia.

Another day, another walk clear across town to the bus station. These four are rock stars.

Chia was closer. The bus ride was a little over an hour long.And it was magic. Wayyy more crowded than Villasimius but still incredible.

It was a wonderful, beautiful trip. And I'm missing it terribly now that I'm back in the real world!

A few summarizing thoughts.

1. This part of Sardinia was the perfect choice for our family. We only heard English one time the entire weekend and that's how we like it. In Italy, wherever the Italians go is the best. That's true when it comes to beaches, restaurants, and vacations.

 

2. We used the diaper trick for our valuables. We took a diaper and rolled up our money inside. Who's going to look inside a diaper for money? It was a very safe area but you can never be too safe.

 

3. I took this beach mat from Target. It was amazing.

 

4. I did not take my big camera at all. Lots of people like to comment that I'll regret not taking DSLR photos. Here's the deal though. I'm not lugging my big camera to the beach and leaving it in the sand while I swim. Not gonna happen. Also...the longer I live here it's just a simple fact that I don't want to take it with me. I don't want the added bulk. I don't want to have to pull it out and adjust the settings. My iPhone works just fine. For me.

 

5. You don't see many photos of the girls because in Europe little girls don't wear tops at the beach. It's just the way it's done and it's so funny talking to my Italian friends. They don't understand why you would cover up something when there's nothing there. HA!

That said, the girls went to the beach every day in 2 piece swimsuits. Once they got there and saw all of the other children they all made the choice to do it the European way and I didn't argue. So there are photos, but they won't be shared here. HEEE!

 

6. In contrast, I felt like a nun on the beach. Seriously. I felt like I was wearing a head to toe wetsuit. In reality it was a tankini. Y'all...European women are awesome. They all rock bikinis no matter weight, age, or breast size. There is zero self consciousness. I wish I could say I've reached this enlightened state after a year here, but the fact is I haven't.

After reading this incredible blog post (by my friend Jessica) I realized I was doing myself and my girls a disservice by not participating at the pool and the beach. What kind of a message am I sending them?  So I spent an entire weekend sans coverup just being present and having FUN. It was exhilarating.

 

7. Yes there was a lot of walking and a LOT of down time riding buses. We made the decision that our girls were just going to have to deal with it. We didn't take electronics at all. Harper did take books but didn't ever read them. There was some whining but they learned to deal with it. And I love that.

So there you have it...our Sardinian adventure!

Happy Wednesday y'all!

xoxo

 

 

Exploring Italy | Venezia/Venice

 

Last Friday I decided to surprise Sadie with a fly-by-the-seat-of-our-pants day trip to Venice.

Harper had just left on a Girl Scouts trip to Naples and I was able to put the littles in hourly care on post.

I realized a couple of things:

1. I'd never been to Venice in the year we'd been here- yeah, i know i know. Not sure how that happened.

2. I'd never taken Sadie anywhere for the entire day- just the two of us.

I set up hourly care for C and L, purchased train tickets, and kept the secret. If you know ANYTHING about me, you know this was excruciating.

On Friday after I dropped C&L off, I turned towards our apartment instead of towards Sadie's school.
I wouldn't tell her what was going on until we got to the train station. I think she was suspicious of my intentions and she didn't seem that impressed. HA!

We bought some croissants, hopped onto the train (it was only a 45 minute train ride!) and hit the road. Tracks? Anyway...

Sadie started to get VERY excited.

When we walked out of the train station we decided to just explore. That's probably the best thing about living in Italy. Instead of only having a once in a lifetime trip...I can come back whenever I want.

I didn't have to cram in any must-sees or must-eats...we just wandered. And it was magical.

Every time we saw a gondola, Sadie begged to take a ride. I knew we were going to take one...I was just picky about choosing the gondolier. I wanted it to be a fun, non cheesy experience. No, that's not right. I wanted the right kind of cheesy!

 

Meet Guila the gondala. And her captain, Stefano. This is one of my all-time favorite Italy stories.

Stefano and I had a hilarious conversation. All in Italian and I have to say I'm pretty proud of myself. A year ago I couldn't have had this experience and I wouldn't have had this story to tell.

I asked Stefano who Monica was.

He told me it was his mama. I said...You don't have a wife? And he said...oh I have a wife, but I'm not putting her name on Guilia.

Mammas are forever. Wives do not last.

BAHAHAHAH! Such a typical comment from an Italian man. I about fell out of the boat!

Here are some things we saw on our gondola ride. Yes, Stefano sang to us. Sadie was simultaneously mortified and intrigued. I,of course, ate it right up.

We ended our gondola ride and set off to find St. Mark's Square. Jimmy? Is the navigator in this relationship. And he was not there.

Let's just say we got lost. Very lost. But that whole wandering/no stress thing worked. We eventually found it. Ask anyone how to get to St. Mark's and they'll tell you to follow the signs.

Please note that the streets of Venice are VERY narrow and winding. There are many bridges to cross and many corners to turn.

At first the signs looked like this:

Then they started to look more like this. Oh my. They got smaller and smaller. Pretty sure I saw one on a post-it.

 We stopped along the way for some shopping:

If you ever need to dress like a gondolier, go here.

We finally found the square. We chased some pigeons, did a tiny bit of sightseeing...

Had a quick lunch, and then caught the train home. Despite what this photo might have you believe- Sadie had an AMAZING time. In this photo we were standing on a bridge and every single time the lady would try to take our pic...about 20 tourists would pass in front of her. HA! Sadie was not amused. Obviously.

It was such a special day. I loved spending time with sweet Sadie. I want to be able to do one on one trips more often. It takes effort, but it always pays off.

And Venice? Stole my heart. I cannot WAIT to go back!

Ciao Y'all!

xoxo

S

Fioreria Pasqualin | Downtown Vicenza Florist

I get a good amount of emails from people who found my blog by googling "living in downtown Vicenza". So so cool. If you are one of those people, then pay attention to today's post.

Let me introduce you to my favorite flower shop (fioreria) of all time...Fioreria Pasqualin.

Here's the front of the shop. It sits on Palladio, a few shops down from Zara.

My girls and I stop in the shop about once a week. We don't always buy something, sometimes we just pop in and say bongiorno and come va.

The owner (pictured above) always has something for the girls. Baby roses, a sprig of baby's breath, a butterfly clip, or a ribbon for their hair.

Every time we walk in the owner and his wife stop what they are doing to fawn over the girls.

Last time we were in, he told us we were "cinque bellissimi fiori" (5 beautiful flowers) that added to his shop's beauty.'

Yep, he's a charmer. And to top that off.. his flowers are the absolute BEST.

 

A few weeks ago I stopped by and bought a bouquet. I took the girls to get a cafe and gelato after and then wandered back towards my car.

The owner came out of his shop when he saw me and shook his finger at me. In Italian he told me that I should have gone directly home and that these flowers should NOT have been in the sun. He had a smile on his face but he was not happy with me. Hahahah! I love Italy. :)

Okay- that's it for today. Just wanted to share one of my favorite things in Vicenza.

xoxo

S

 

 

Exploring Italy | Piazzola Sul Brenta

This past weekend I went to the one of the largest antique market in Northern Italy...in Piazzola sul Brenta.

It takes place the last Sunday of each month and this was my first time visiting in the 10 months we've been here.

AMAZING.

and overwhelming. and MAGICAL.

Vendor after vendor after vendor. And the best hotdogs and chilled red wine I've had in a long time.

I came home with this bad boy. I knew that if I didn't I'd be thinking about it for a LONG time. And that was a mistake I wasn't willing to make.

I wish I would have had cash left for this, but it wasn't in the cards. Next time?

This is going to be another future purchase. I can just see it on the wall of a girlie bedroom or playroom.

I went with my friend who has 9 month old twins. She only had one with her and ended up wearing the baby so that we could use her stroller for our swag. HA! The Italians were molto confusi.

I also scooped up a couple of alarm clocks.

I honestly think we saw mayyyyybe 1/3 of the entire market. It is decided that I must go back every month.

Happy Thursday, y'all!

xoxo

 

Maggio in Italia

roses//herbs//tulips//caprese//jasmine//poppies//sandals//cherries//amazing fruit//peonies

I wish I could describe the way it smells here right now. But there are no words. It's how I imagine heaven must smell. A combination of jasmine and fresh fruit. Sigh. Can you all come visit?

xoxo

S

 

Mercatinos

Finally a replacement for Flea Market Finds! It's been so long since I frequented the flea markets in Texas. And I loved the thrill of the hunt, the bargain, and the find.

And I haven't found anything to duplicate that feeling and fill that void. Until now! Let me tell you about mercatinos. Imagine stores 10x better than any flea market or thrift store in America. Because things we consider "old" are NEW to Italians. Old has a whole new meaning here.

Mercatinos are Italian flea markets/antique stores/thrift stores. Some have consignment items. And I found my happy place at one the other day!

Here's what the shop looks like:

For those of you who are local, this shop is in Bolzano Vincentino at Via Cotorossi 31. They have weird afternoon hours only...I think from 2-7.

This is the front room, but the back rooms are HUGE.

I am obsessed with this sign but it is way too expensive.

 

Here's what I came home with!

I love adding treasures to our home. It's been too long. And I love that each item I buy here will give me such great memories.

Happy Monday!

xo

S

Questions About Italy #1

Welcome to "Domande su Italia". Questions about Italy. This is a fun new series I plan on visiting monthly in this space.

I will answer questions that you've asked me here, on Twitter, through email, on FB, Instagram..okay. I think you get the point. HA!

Disclaimer: I am not an expert on Italy. Or Europe. These are just my observations and opinions after living here for 10 months. Everything you see here is based on my experiences. I have no doubt that others have had different experiences...but I'm speaking from my frame of reference! :)

A: Nope. It's not true. In fact, it's a downright misconception. I kept hearing this before I moved here. I heard it a LOT about Parisians. And I couldn't disagree more.

A few thoughts:

1. There are rude people everywhere. That's a fact, Jack. I ran into plenty of them in America and I've certain run into plenty here. But to categorize an entire group of people as rude is unfair and it causes preconceived notions.

2. Italian people are the stereotype that you see in movies. They are not overly, ridiculously friendly. They are cautious with their friendship and conversations. As Americans, we are by nature just friendly, put it all out there people. "Hey" or "Hi!" is a greeting for anyone. In Italy, there are different categories of greetings based on how well you know the person. Biongiorno/ Buona Sera is for strangers, Salve is in between (someone you kind of know), and Ciao is for friends.

People here don't want to be your bestie if they are never going to see you again. Why expend the effort? And I totally get that. And like it! I'm proud to say that after close to a year here I am getting way more "Ciaos" than "Buongiornos". A smile and a friendly conversation (IN ITALIAN) helps.

Case in point: I thought our neighbors HATED us. HATED. Turns out they just didn't know us. The moment I went over to say hello randomly one evening...we were invited for a homemade dinner and nonstop conversation. True story.

3. In relation to #2...I really think you get what you give. If you visit a country and treat the citizens with respect, then you will get a good response. A big smile, constant attempts to learn and use the language, and good manners...those things go so far. Many Americans (in all countries I've visited) don't even try to use French, German, or Italian. They expect the people they encounter to speak English (and sometimes seem angry if they don't). Not okay.

4. If I run into rude people (there were one or two in Paris) I just smile and don't take it personally.

 

A. Great question. And this took some reflection. I'd have to say that the hardest thing about living in Italy is the lack of efficiency.

America has a very go,go,go! mentality. 24 hour stores, etc. I don't miss the mentality but I do miss the efficiency that comes along with it. I loved being able to get a straight answer when I asked a question. I loved being able to get something fixed or straightened out immediately. That just doesn't happen here.

You don't get answers or returned calls, you wait in lines for hours only to be told to go to another line, only to have that line close as soon as you get there because it's riposo. Businesses and roads will arbitrarily be closed with no warning or reason.

The Internet goes out all the time. It's gone out 2 times while I've typed this. There's no reason and it can't be fixed.

It takes a long time to get things done. And that frustrates me. It frustrated me 10 months ago (to the point of tears)...and it still does. Just not as much. I've gotten much better at taking a deep breath and waiting it out.

Another difficult thing (obviously) is the language better. I've gotten much much better with this due to classes and the Duolingo app. But there is still SO much to be learned.

One of my most frustrating moments in Italy was trying to order a rib roast for Christmas. I was gesturing, using my translate rib, even pointing to my own ribs. I was desperate. But the butcher and I figured it out and it ended up being one of my most proud moments!

 

 

Okay. That's it for today. Hopefully this is something y'all find interesting and worth reading. I'd love to share monthly!

Buon Fine Settimana!

xo

S

 

 

Positano + Amalfi

This past weekend we took a little trip to the Amalfi Coast. And it was not NEARLY enough time. I've been obsessed with Italy almost my entire life...specifically the Amalfi Coast. So going there was a HUGE deal to me.

And it met (and surpassed!) every single expectation. I want to go back NOW.

We left bright and early Friday morning for the 8 hour drive. Here's what blows my mind. I grew up in Texas. Where you can drive 8 hours and still be in Texas.

Here you can drive across an entire country (or through multiple countries!) in that amount of time. We drove through Tuscany, Umbria, and then into Campania...the region the Amalfi coast was in.

I literally gasped out loud the entire trip!

We rented a villa (pretty much my dream home) through Airbnb. You can see it HERE. I can't recommend it highly enough.

I've talked about this briefly before...but Airbnb is awesome. And so much more financially smart for big families. In Europe, due to occupancy, we'd have to rent 2 hotel rooms per night. Which would cost a FORTUNE. We so prefer renting entire apartments/villas and have done so in every single country we've visited!

Here's what we saw when we walked in the gate...the steps up to the house. There were calla lilies, succuluents, and elephant ear ferns everywhere.

The view from the magical terrace. My favorite part of the entire home. There was a huge retractable roof, a gorgeous table and couch, candles everywhere, and an unbeatable view.

The living room view:

The neighbors:

The jaw-dropping view at night:

The lemons there are RIDICULOUS. Seriously the size of small Nerf footballs.

The first afternoon we headed to the beach to explore.

We also walked through town and looked at all of the adorable storefronts.

The pottery there was so beautiful. I had to go back before we left and pick up a few pieces!

On Saturday we took a water taxi/ferry to Amalfi. We wanted to go to Capri (one of my ultimate dream destinations) so that's definitely at the top of the list for next time we go.

It was overcast but the view was so inspiring.

This was Amalfi from our bird's eye view:

and the adorable piazza:

 

We drank a lot of limoncello on this trip. And we've had a fair amount since we moved to Italy. When it is good it is really, really good (like delicious lemonade with a kick). And when it is bad it is so,so,so SO bad (think something that tastes exactly like the smell of Pine Sol.) We had lots of the good kind on the Amalfi Coast.

They do limoncello right there!

We explored the winding streets of Amalfi. And OH THE STEPS. So so so many steps. Ha!

When we got back to the house, the littles were WORN OUT. They fell asleep without dinner. So we sent H and J out to pick up pizzas and Sadie and I set up a surprise outdoor dinner for them.


Befor we headed out of town the next day we made sure to pick up some souvenirs. Limoncello glasses, pottery, and lemons. Of course.

We were heartbroken to leave. Every single one of us. I could definitely live there forever. We are already planning our next trip(s).

Ciao Y'all! And Buona Pasqua.

xoxo

S

Ciao Primavera!

** First of all...thank you thank you THANK YOU for your kind words on my last post. You all "get" me. And that feels so good. xoxox **

It seems Spring has arrived in Italia!

And y'all...it's magical. I've experienced Italy in Summer, Winter, and Fall...but Spring takes the cake.

Every other season is a distant second. Seems like I've found my sweet spot.

It's completely, totally, 100% worth the sneezing and itchy eyes. It's magnificent.

Speaking of magnificent...Jen Allyson has designed a new collection for MME. It's called Market Street and is honestly my favorite MME collection of all time. Go check it out. LOVE.

Happy Tuesday, sweet friends.

xo

 

 

Recently | Italia Instas

Here's a glimpse at what's been happening in our world lately.

Oh- and I'd love your input. I'm wanting to do another post on what it's like to move to another country. Anything you are wondering? Questions you'd like to ask? Please share them here so I can make sure to answer them in my post. Thanks, loves!

xo